Life on Lesvos proceeds at a leisurely pace. There is a strong sense of family and community and the islanders are welcoming, friendly and helpful. The island has practically no crime, with the police seemingly mainly occupied in checking drivers’ documents and civil regulations and consents.

The island offers a range of things to see and places to visit and presents the opportunity to enjoy different sights and experiences throughout the holiday year. In the spring visitors are stunned by the fantastic range of wildflowers and shrubs which carpet the landscape. During high season many people head for the attractive beaches and the sea. In September and October the daytime temperatures both on the land and in the sea are considered by many people to make this the best time to visit.

Eresos
Eresos offers traditional Greek life at its best. The focal point of the village is the square or plateia, shaded by plane trees and providing an ideal place to watch the world go by, maybe in the company of the older men who sit nursing one cup of coffee for hours whilst chatting and playing with their Kumbaloi (worry beads). In the evenings the square becomes a much livelier place, with people dining and relaxing in the restaurants and bars which surround the square.

Although in many ways Eresos feels timeless technology has not passed it by and there are a number of wi fi hot spots around the square.

In the summer months the children are not at school and will be found in the small garden and playground just off the square or hitch hiking down to the beach. The village provides a safe, nurturing environment in which children can develop a degree of independence.

The village is quite literally “at the end of the road” and there is no through route. The village has three main churches but also many small churches hidden away in the tiny streets. The streets that lead off the square are narrow and well worth exploring on foot. Finding your way around the maze of streets can be a challenge to your sense of direction but you won’t get lost for long. You will discover simple and grand buildings, well-tended gardens with blossom trees, vegetables and flowers and friendly locals happy to respond to your “Kalimera” or “Kalispera”, tumbledown houses and olive groves with chickens, sheep and goats. If you walk beyond the edge of the village you will soon find yourself in the wild and rugged countryside, where your only company is likely to be the sheep and goats which graze on the mountainsides.

For many visitors it is enough to relax in and around Eresos but there are many things to see and do on the island. Here are some of the destinations in the west of Lesvos:

Skala Eresou (approximately 4km from Michlin Villa and Michlin House)
Skala Eresou is very much the ‘summer village’ as it effectively closes down during the winter months. However, from Easter onwards it ‘wakes up’ and becomes a lively and friendly holiday resort. It is an inclusive place and caters equally well for families, couples and ‘singles’. Skala has the best beach on the island, a 2.5 km sandy beach from which you can swim in the crystal clear waters of the Aegean. There is ample space to either peacefully sun bathe or take part in a wide range of water based activities and sports.

Wherever you are on the beach you are within walking distance of Skala’s numerous bars, restaurants and shops. Locally caught seafood accompanied by equally fresh local fruit and vegetables can be enjoyed in many of the excellent restaurants. A relaxing way to end the day is to take a seat in one of the beachfront cocktail bars and watch the sun go down.

Overlooking the beach is a headland on the summit of which is a small white chapel. The walk up to the chapel is marked by white painted stones and the views from the top make the effort worthwhile. Another of the hills, Vigla, has the ruins of medieval and Turkish small towers. Just behind the contemporary church of Saint Andreas are the ruins of a Paleochristian church dating from the 5th century. The mosaic floor is open to view and has geometric figures and images from the plant and animal world. On the same site stands a building which houses a sarcophagus which holds relics of Saint Andreas, the patron saint of Eresos (740AD).

Chrousou Beach (approximately 18km from Michlin Villa and Michlin House)
If you want to try a different beach head out of Eresos on the Mesotopus road and at Mesotopus turn right towards the small fishing village of Tavari. Before you reach Tavari take a right turn along a dirt track to Chrousou Beach. It is a very quiet sandy beach with shallow water – great for children. There are small reefs of rocks which provide the opportunity for some leisurely snorkeling. Tavari also has a beach, and harbour, and a few restaurants and shops.

The Monastery of Pithari (Moni Pithariou) (approximately 4km from Michlin Villa and Michlin House)

Founded during the 17th century this monastery is consecrated to the archangels. It is undergoing extensive renovation and it is in a stunning setting in a ravine of oak and plane trees and overlooking the reservoir.

Moni Ipsilou, the Petrified Forest and Sigri (approximately 12km, 21km and 24km respectively from Michlin Villa and Michlin House)

On the road to Sigri is the Monastery of Ipsilos, Moni Ipsilou. It is an imposing building which stands on the highest peak of the Ordymnos range, 551metres above sea level. The monastery was founded before 800AD and is the oldest monastery on Lesvos. Through the ages it has been variously sacked and raided by the Turks and devastated by fire. However, it was restored in 1971 and displays a number of large icons, embroidered stoles and altar cloths, relics and plenty of sacred vessels and manuscripts. There is a steep road up to the monastery, happily with a one-way system, but it is worth making the effort.

Approximately 7km before the village of Sigri is the turn off to the Petrified Forest. Experts reckon the petrified wood, the result of volcanic activity, is at least 500,000, but possibly 20 million, years old. Even in spring the site is very hot and exposed – so go prepared. You can also visit the Natural History Museum of the Lesvos Petrified Forest in Sigri.

Sigri is on the west coast, north of Skala Eresou. It is a beautiful, peaceful fishing port and quite literally at the end of the road. The excellent restaurant on the harbour in Sigri is a great place to refresh. If you still have the time and the energy drive along the coast and visit Faneromeni Beach, with its fascinating rocks and small chapel set into the hillside.

An alternative way to visit Sigri is to take the walk along the Old Sigri Road, which is an unsurfaced track. This is a 10km walk, without shade and walkers should be prepared with appropriate footwear, a hat, water and some light refreshments. You will need to arrange a lift or taxi for the return. It is possible to drive from Eresos along the Old Sigri Road, but without the benefit of a 4-wheel drive vehicle it is fairly challenging.

Antissa, Liota and Gavathas (approximately 12km, 17km and 20km respectively from Michlin Villa and Michlin House)

Antissa is the regional centre for the surrounding villages. It has a central square shaded by three large plane trees. There are several restaurants and bars around the square and it is a cool place to visit on a hot afternoon. A turning off the road between Antissa and Gavathas takes you up to the small village of Liota. Here, there is a beautifully renovated church and a restaurant which is shaded by an enormous ancient plane tree. The restaurant serves good simple food and the views across the valley are spectacular. There is a small harbour and a sandy beach at Gavathas which is built upon a peninsula that shelters the main beach. There are rocky beaches on the other side that are good for snorkeling when the sea is calm. On the headland is the small church of St Pandeleimon guarded by an old rusted tank with its gun pointed at Turkey.

Vatousa (approximately 21km from Michlin Villa and Michlin House)
Approximately 9km further on from Antissa is the architecturally interesting village of Vatousa. It is an ideal destination for those wanting to see another traditional village with its paved streets, stone walls and houses and unchanged way of life. The Gogos Museum in Vatousa is worth a visit. It houses a collection of rare books, local arts and crafts and has an interesting exhibition of photographs which documents the village’s past life including the diaspora of Vatousans in the early part of the 20th century.

These are just a few illustrations of what there is to do when staying in west Lesvos – but this is just the tip of the iceberg – you still have much more to discover in the west of the island – and then you can start on the north, south and east!

Further afield there are too many things to mention, but here are just two other destinations that we have particularly enjoyed.

The Kalloni salt pans (approximately 40km from Michlin Villa and Michlin House)
Lesvos is a prime destination for serious birdwatchers as it is an important staging post on migratory routes. In addition, Lesvos has an abundance of resident birds. On both sides of Kalloni there are excellent locations for bird watching. On the Mytilene side of Kalloni there is a bird watching tower overlooking the salt pans. Greater Flamingoes are winter visitors from September to May, although some may be seen at other times of the year. The black-winged stilts are common summer visitors and passage migrants at other times. For serious ‘twitchers’ or those with a more general interest in wildlife Lesvos is a great place. Having enjoyed some time watching the birds the day will be further enhanced by driving 12km and taking the road to Achladeri on the east coast of the Gulf of Kalloni. There you can stop to enjoy an excellent meal at the small restaurant overlooking the Gulf – ask to see what fresh seafood they have. You might also like to stroll down the track from the restaurant to view the remains of Ancient Pyrra, a flooded village.

Agia Paraskevi (approximately 48km from Michlin Villa and Michlin House)
East of Kalloni, this village is well-known for its traditional houses and mansions. It also has an excellent museum which charts the history of olive oil making on the island. The Oil Press of Agia Paraskevi is a complex of stone-built buildings that are an early 20th century (1910) example of exceptional industrial architecture on the island. Initially, it operated as an industrial complex (oil-press and corn-mill) and later on, until 1967, it was run as a community business. In 1984 it was restored and the oil storehouses were converted to a folk art museum. It has magnificently restored machinery, interesting artifacts and informative audio visual displays.